| An Epic Summers Day – Geryon Traverse |
| Thursday, 24 February 2011 11:50 |
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Read about last years adventure… And now we were back, looking down into the abyss once more. This time Tristen had joined us for the climb. He had been unable to last year for 'work related reasons'. Daves 2 sisters, Fiona and Alison, had also joined us for the 4 day adventure, and at this moment were glad they had chosen not to attempt the traverse with us.
See more photos on the Catapult Earth Facebook Page. The sun was bright but the strong gust of wind had us on edge. Rage Against the Machine from Tristens Ipod psyched us up for a few minutes, till Dave almost threw it off the cliff. We stood there looking at our supposed route, trying to find the line. Over the Foresight and then up the peak of Geryon South. As the crow flies the south peak was no more than 100m away, but there was little doubt it would take us all day to get there. The hardest pitch up the south peak, grade 17/19, was thrown at me. Looking at it from here, the route was hard to pick and we read the notes over and over trying to get it. Though the grade was not hard it is certainly no sport climb up the local crag, It looked messy and unpredictable, with loose rock and dodgy belay ledges. I was feeling a bit out of my depth. There are so many other factors involved here and I kindly declined and would leave the lead to Dave.
(Setting up the Abseil on the North Peak and Dave contemplating the route, with the Foresight pillar on the left, the South Peak on the right and the Acropolis in the background.)
Thats a funny thought. We were not far off the Overland Track (we actually looked down at it from the peak). Here 100 people a day would be trudging down the well warn track. But over the 3 nights we camped in the Labyrinth, we met 8 people and the number of people who actually got to this point and made the traverse we were about to attempt would probably be less than 50 to date (please correct me if I am wrong). Thats the beauty of this place, in 2 hours drive, 30 mins on a boat and a days walk and you were out there in this fantastic wilderness. And we had it all to ourselves.
You need a 4m sling, letting the ropes hang over the edge, so that they will not get snagged when you get down and pull the ropes through. This means you hook in and basically lie on your belly hang your legs over the edge, wave goodbye to your mates and then lower yourself off into space. It was this moment that I had played over and over in my head. Its not difficult, just a few moments to overcome the fear and then give total faith in the gear. Easy - yeah right, thats why we were all so nervous.
The steady winds were making the ropes whip around the rock face. After a group shot or 2, yes of course, Catapult Earth Tees were the order of the day. Its a given these days to be wearing merino in the mountains, being light weight, breathable comfortable and of importantly after a long trek, odour resistant. Then with a beaming smile and 'see you down there' Dave was the first to disappear over the edge, swaying as he went. It seemed like forever before we heard the familiar 'off rope' to signal he had made it down. With a backpack full of hiking gear I followed, hooking in to the belay device, double checking, triple checking, and double checking again, onto the belly, legs over, and slowly down… weeeeeeee. Gently spinning, descending off into space, floating free for over 35m before touching any rock, then another 10 odd meters and I settled in next to Dave. Trouser filling stuff for sure.
By the time I got down the gut and back were killing me. Not a good sign so early in the game. But figured the weight of the backpack on the abseil was to blame. Tristen followed with backpack and had the same problem 'god I must be unfit!' he moaned - no it was just a long way. It was cool to watch from below as Tristen slowly descended from what seemed like so far above. This was followed by another 20m abseil to the north col. We settled here and soaked up the moment - we were here doing it, we were actually here and doing it! This was *#$%&ing awesome.
The wind was still blowing and cool, but the sky was clearing and there was absolutely no haze to block the views. Now to climb back up. The Foresight is the small centre pinnacle of the 3 main peaks. From the col its 65m, a 2 pitch climb of easy grade 9 and 12. You can scramble up from the valley and do the full 90m of the Foresight. We sorted out the gear and checked the line we had to follow. Tristen would lead the first pitch, and then belay Dave and I together. The north of the Foresight looked better to climb, but with less protection, but the notes said up the west face. The first pitch though easy is messy climbing. Tristen who is usually more at home in the ice and snow mad short work of the it, using the 2 ropes effectively to reduce the drag. I followed and then Dave and it wasn't long before we had regained half the height we lost in the abseil and were looking back at the girls on the north peak and checking out the stunning views over the east side of the mountain. The east side of Geryon is actually taller and steeper than the west, with climbs like Orion 357m 17 and The Shield 450m 24, where the west side was about 250m before you hit the scrub
From above Dave sisters could see the north looked nicer to climb. After several more moments and the realisation that the best way through this is up, 'its all just a single easy moves, one at a time'. I gained my composure and headed up. The second pitch in itself is actually nice climb. Being extra wary of of anything that looked remotely loose, I placed an bit more gear than needed but finally made it. The top of the Foresight is fantastic. Maybe 2m x 3m ledge with lots of 'air' it gives little room for moving around. Placing gear for a belay is also a bit tricky. I lay spread eagle looking for a good place for an anchor. A couple of old pitons were reminders of some of the first climbers here. Again on double ropes I belayed Tristen and Dave up. The memory of the 3 of us sitting on the Foresight in between the 2 huge faces of the north and south peaks will linger for a long time. I felt tense and fully focused, yet free and glad to be sharing this with good friends. We were truly out in the mountains here
Yet I could feel Dave was eager to keep going as he set up the next abseil, I had lost too much time. I gathered the ropes as Dave set up the slings and lowered them over the edge. This was a 45m abseil down the Foresight to the south col. Dave headed down first. We waited for what seemed like forever again. 'You down yet? yelled Tristen. 'No!' an irate voice yelled back. The ropes had got tangled on the way down and Dave was stuck half way down the cliffs. There was not much we could do, and waited patiently, hoping he could get out or prusik back up. After several long moments Dave who thankfully could stand on a bit of a ledge, had managed to unhook from one of the ropes and feed it through to untangle the ropes. I thought how luckily it was that this had not happened on the last abseil when we were 'floating'. This was no childs play. Tristen followed and then I cleaned the belay and went too. Looking at the chockstone that the slings were on caused a moments hesitation, and was best not to ponder on for too long. I stopped 6m above the col on a ledge to pull the ropes through, as further round would have been too tricky. There is always that moment, that nervous wait as you pull the last bit of rope through and watch it fall in slow motion. 'Will it get caught on something, please don't, be good, I don't want to have to climb back up. And a sigh of relief as you freely manage to gather it all up.
Tristen and Dave were already setting up the 8m traverse to the next belay station as I made it down the last section. We were in the shade and the wind was blowing cold here in the shadow of the mountain, but Dave easily made it across to the ledge that had looked so tricky from above and gave the thumbs up as it was in the sun and out of the wind. It was a fab spot to spend a while and ponder on belay, as Dave headed up the south face. I had seconded on the traverse to the ledge so I could belay. Tristen had stayed on the col to get some good shots of Dave on lead and to lighten his own load.
Belaying is a funny thing. On a good sunny day like today, on a long climb where you can't see the climber and only gage by the feel of the rope, you get moments reflect, look around and soak up the atmosphere. These moments are as much what climbing is all about to me as the actual climbing itself. Its a strange sport with its mix of waiting patiently and total focus, where every muscle is used to make the smallest of moves. On a bad day with the weather coming in, and the icy cold wind trying to give you frostbite or blow you off the mountain there is nothing worse than being on belay.
Today was a good day, with views for miles and the sun shining. It was great to be here. Since we were here last March a few things had changed. The arrival of our third girl Abbey changed the focus of whats important once more. Its not that my love for adventure has changed since the arrival of kids, its just that I now look a little closer at the risks I am willing to take. I had been determined not to let go of climbing and have worked hard to find a balance, but you can't help the mixed feelings. Everyone has their thing, for some its the beach, for others its the deserts or the sky, for me its the mountains. And even then we all have our own special idea of what the mountains are to us. For Tristen its all a progression, a journey, where every climb or mountain is a step up towards the next bigger challenge – he doesn't get the attraction of lakes. For me its always been about the wild places, the challenge of yourself and the elements, often solo, and experiencing those moments where words are neither necessary or appropriate.
Standing on that ledge 200m above the valley floor, on the end of the rope, I looked back at the trail we had hiked up this morning some 8 hrs earlier. Beyond that the labyrinth, Walled Mountain which we had climbed yesterday as we waited for the rock to dry out, and the endless mountains beyond. The emptiness, the mystery and beauty of this wilderness reminded me why I love this place so much. I smiled at the future of sharing these magic places with my girls. My thoughts were broken by Tristens cursing at the rope as it had jammed after his traverse across from the col. It was nicely stuck, and no matter what he tried he could not get it free. Coming to the ledge he clipped into the safety of the belay and headed back across. Tug, pull. Shit! Suddenly Dave who was 30m up and out of sight on the top belay ledge was quickly pulling up the rope, of which Tristen was tide into at the other end. 'Wait! Don't Pull, Stop!'. The rope stopped feeding through. Not sure what would have been going through Daves head at that moment as to what was happening below, but after a fair bit of cursing the rope came free and we gave the all clear. All fun and games.
Daves lead started with a 10m climb up a chimney, that from the north side it looked like it was about to fall off the mountain. Close up it looked and felt more solid. You had to gain the block and then traverse 4m across a blank wall to a finger crack. Pulling up into the crack was supposedly the crux. After the chimney I lost sight of Dave, but seconding I could only admire what he just lead. I remember the backwards and forwards of the tension in the rope as he had worked at the blank traverse. After struggling up the chimney, because I couldn't fully get into it with the backpack on, I stood on top of the block and studied the blank wall. It was a set of balancy moves best made with little hesitation and with little chance of backing off once committed. The trick for Dave had been placing the gear at the end, which you had to do almost blindly around the arete. Nice moves. This and the following wide and very positive finger crack was the best climbing of the day. Tristen finally followed, and after struggling to remove a small cam for a good 10 minutes he joined us on the belay ledge. The ledge was actually a lot bigger and more solid than it had looked from the North Peak and we comfortably sorted out the gear.
I still didn't have my head in the the right spot, and kept my frock on, so Tristen took the lead for the last 10m up the solid crack to the summit of Geryon South... And there we were. Awesome, Soaking up that view of 360 degrees as far as the eye could see, peak after peak and endless wilderness, from Barn Bluff in the north and Frenchmans cap and even the Western Arthurs in the south, I felt totally elated and relieved to be here.
It was only 2 days earlier on 27 January 2011 that we had set out from Daves house at 6.15am from Launceston and were on our way to Lake St Clair. It was clear when we left but by the time we had got there the familiar clouds had come in it looked like rain. By the time we had walked the 2.5 hours to Pine Valley hut, hiked past an orgy of snakes (which only Fiona and Alison actually saw - still have to get the photo.), had a bit of lunch, continued up the steep track to the Labyrinth and got within reach of our destination at Lake Elysia the weather had come in - typical. But he forecast was good, so we held onto hope as we set up the tents and cooked. As the rain came down we had an early night. 13 hours is a long time in a tent. By 5am the rain started to ease and only got better as the day wore on. If it had cleared bt 9am we would have gone that day. But it didn't clear till after 11am, so we left it and took the risk Saturday would be better, and it would have dried out. So we took the rough track up Walled Mountain. A nice hike with great views. It allowed us to thoroughly review Geryon, as well as continue our discussions on 'falling trees in the forest, and if they make noise' or 'the view that humans could one day be created by artificial intelligence - so what makes a human' - all light hearted stuff. The day had ended with a long walk round the lake, some awesome chicken curry (thanks Dave), the sorting out of gear, a few safety tips and prusik lessons, several games of cards, oh and Tristen sleeping in the bivy.
All that was only yesterday, but seemed like forever ago as we sat congratulating ourselves on Geryons south peak. Photo time. Time check 4.15pm - bugger. We had estimated at least 3 hours getting back to camp from here, and thats if we didn't get lost. We were lucky, as there is actually a well marked track from the peak, though at times a bit airy its a good hike down. Tristen and Dave were almost running (reminded me of me 10 years ago) Now, it takes a little longer, and as I don't get to do it every weekend, I wasn't really in a hurry to get off the mountain.
After an hour or so zig zagging down the mountain and around the south spur we were down onto the scree slope. Past a little whip snake and into the valley forest, through the empty climbers camp site and back up the other side of the valley to the pool of memories. This climb is quite steep, but also enjoyable as vegetation changes so quickly as you gain elevation. Once back in the Labyrinth at the Pool of Memories, it was only 30mins back to camp.
We got there just after 7pm. Fiona and Alison had braved a swim in the lake and had the dinner cooking. We celebrated the day with a Mead and some Whiskey, a game of cards and were rewarded with a magic sunset on the mountain.
The following day we reluctantly packed up and headed back to Lake St Clair and the boat. Now we were heading home I was keen to be gettng back to my girls. We were satisfied and we had been lucky that the mountains had given us the chance to achieve what we set out to. It was a good trip. Thanks to Tristen, Dave, Fiona and Alison for making it a very memorable one. And thanks for your on going support of Catapult Earth too. Being on this road less travelled, is what its about. |
It was nine months ago that Dave and I stood on the cliff edge on the peak of Geryon North and looked down into the grey abyss – the 50m abseil into thin air that would mark the real beginning of what has to be one of Australia's best mountain skyline traverse's.'
It had been 5.30am when Dave, almost jumping out of his skin in eagerness, woke us all with a hot cup of tea. Now it was already after 9am, and with stomachs churning and our senses in overload we swapped our hiking gear for climbing gear, tied our 2 ropes together and fed them through our sling (and all the 4 other slings that had been left around the belay block from previous descents just for good measure), knotted the ends, and threw it over the edge 'roooooooope' Dave yelled. In case anyone was down there! hah.
We gathered up the ropes and re-distributed the gear. It was my lead to gain the Foresight. I was fairly tense. The climbing I know was not going to be hard, but I don't practice leading everyday and the exposure up here is insane. The notes said climb the east face, so I headed out left. As I slowly headed out along the face, being careful not to bump rocks down onto the guys, I tentatively grabbed a big wedge only to have it almost rip off the wall. I froze and held it in place. I was shit scared it would fall and land on the guys below. Though recalling the moment I am sure it was way off. 'Sorry guys, I'm not sure I can follow through on this' I yelled. 'Just put a sling around that big rock' Tristen said. 'What this one?' I replied as I gave it a nudge to show that was loose too. 'F#$% off!'. I down climbed a little and took a few moments. I stood against the rock, banged my head. Moments of thinking 'what am I doing here' were thrown against thoughts like 'Its easy climbing, you are safe, don't be a knob'. Thoughts filled my head of my smiling girls, our newest arrival little Abbey whom I only just have met and then Nomes who would be so angry at my stupidity.
